Back in 1990, Elizabeth Arden debuted ceramide capsules, ushering in a new concept in prestige skincare. The capsule technology preserved the sensitive ingredients inside and gave consumers a right-size dose of product. Capsules have remained a staple in Arden’s lineup ever since and its R&D team packed new ingredient-driven formulas inside those pretty little things.

Now, the brand is rolling out its latest iteration that it expects to have a big impact on skin: Retinol + HPR Ceramide Capsules Rapid Skin-Renewing Serum.

This new formula contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), a retinoic acid ester. Unlike like traditional retinoids, it binds to retinoid x receptors (RXRs) in skin rather than retinoic acid receptors (RARs).  Since it doesn’t need to convert to retinoic acid (as with other retinoids), 100% of HPR is used—which means it delivers greater potency without any irritation, according to the company.

Elizabeth Arden officials say this makes the new serum gentle enough to use morning and night, even by first-time or novice retinol users.

“Our new formulation, featuring HPR—a highly potent retinoid that’s 10 times stronger than pure retinol yet gentle on the skin—represents a game-changing advancement,” said Susan Zuckerman, VP-global marketing, Elizabeth Arden.  “What truly sets this serum apart is that every single user, including those new to retinol, reported that it felt comfortable on their skin.”

HPR retinoid acid ester is considered to be the next generation of retinoids.

“It delivers the same potency and superior efficacy of highly active retinoids while being extremely gentle on the skin, without causing any of the typical side effects like irritation, dryness and flaking,” said Dermatologist Dendy Engelman MD. “Traditional retinoids—including the commonly used pure retinol—work by binding to the retinoic acid receptors in the skin which are the ones known to cause irritation when activated. However, HPR works by binding to the RXRs only, which won’t cause any irritation when activated. You get all the potency and efficacy without any side effects.”

Adding HPR

Elizabeth Arden’s R&D team has been developing novel formulas for decades while also considering what current consumers want in their skincare regimen.

“Our team consistently conducts research for new technology, what is currently trending and what consumers are looking for in their skincare products. Knowing that irritation is a deterrent for consumers to try retinol, we were eager to find a way for consumers to reap the benefits without that irritation. Because [HPR] is so gentle, it allows for consumers to use this advanced technology morning—alongside SPF—and night as part of their skincare regimens,” said Allison Dratch, senior manager of product development, Elizabeth Arden.

She told Happi that prior to creating Retinol + HPR Ceramide Capsules, Arden conducted research and found that, at that time, HPR alone was not sufficiently well known to consumers.

“As a result, we included retinol in the ingredient listing,” Dratch said.

The encapsulation plays a crucial role in this new serum, according to Zuckerman.

“First and foremost, the encapsulation of the 4% Pure Retinol + HPR Complex within biodegradable capsules is vital for protecting these potent, photosensitive ingredients from light and air exposure. This protective measure ensures that the retinol and HPR remain stable and effective, maintaining their potency from the moment of application until they reach the skin,” Zuckerman added. “Moreover, the encapsulated delivery system offers a precise and consistent dose with each capsule. This pre-measured format not only enhances convenience but also ensures that users receive the exact amount of active ingredients needed for optimal results without the risk of over- or under-application.”

In addition to the retinol and HPR complex, the formula contains peptides that visibly soothe lines and wrinkles; bisabolol and oat to soothe skin and minimize irritation; phytoceramides to strengthen the skin barrier; and vitamin E to defend against environmental stressors.

According to Dratch, Arden tested the formula on specific areas where aging most commonly shows up on the face—such as marionette lines, nasolabial fold lines and glabellar lines—to ensure the product delivers on its promise.

The formula visibly improves lines and wrinkles after seven days, based on consumer study of 57 participants, according to Elizabeth Arden, which is part of Revlon, No. 15 on Happi’s 2024 Top 50 Report.